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Pessac-Leognan
The commune (or Bordeaux suburb) of Pessac lies just to the south of these chateaux. Léognan lies 10 kilometers (six miles) further on. The latter is also home to several other quality members of the Bordeaux elite. These include Domaine de Chevalier, and Chateaux Haut-Bailly, Malartic-Lagravière, Larrivet Haut-Brion and de Fieuzal. Léognan is surrounded almost entirely by pine forests and vineyards, and benefits from the same superior drainage as Pessac.
三、 傳奇白酒王:有錢也未必買得到的 Château Haut-Brion Blanc
提到 Pessac-Léognan,絕對不能不提 1855 年唯一打破梅多克(Médoc)壟斷、破格入選一級莊的 Château Haut-Brion (侯伯王 / 港譯:紅顏容)。
大家都知道它的紅酒享譽全球,但其實 Haut-Brion 的「白酒」更加珍貴與傳奇!Château Haut-Brion Blanc 每年的產量極其稀少(通常僅有數百箱),在拍賣市場上的價格甚至經常超越其一級莊紅酒。它將 Sauvignon Blanc 的清新與 Sémillon 的豐厚完美結合,香氣是波爾多乾白酒(Dry White)中最複雜、最具深度的,被公認為當之無愧的波爾多白酒王。
延伸閱讀:波爾多1855 梅多克列級莊分級
四、 「白酒狂人」André Lurton 與 30 年的產區獨立抗爭
Pessac-Léognan 能有今日與梅多克四大名村平起平坐的地位,背後有一段長達 30 年的熱血抗爭史,靈魂人物正是出身波爾多釀酒豪門的 安德烈·露桐(André Lurton)。
在 1980 年代之前,波爾多左岸幾乎被紅酒統治,這片區域也僅被視為 Graves 的一部分。但 Lurton 先生堅信這裡北部的獨特沙礫土壤,具備釀造世界級白酒的龐大潛力。自 1953 年起,他耗費了數十年的時間研究風土,親自遊說並提供技術支援給當地酒農,甚至與守舊派抗衡。最終,在他的積極奔走與推動下,產區品質一路高歌,終於在 1987 年成功爭取到 Pessac-Léognan 成為獨立的 AOC 產區。
延伸閱讀:波爾多左岸 VS 右岸
Pessac-Léognan
In 1986 a new communal district was created within Graves, in Bordeaux, based on the districts of Pessac and Léognan, the first of which lies within the suburbs of the city. Essentially this came about through pressure from Pessac-Léognan vignerons, who wished to disassociate themselves from growers with predominately sandy soils further south in Graves. Pessac-Léognan has the best soils of the region, very similar to those of the Médoc, although the depth of gravel is more variable, and contains all the classed growths of the region. Some of its great names, including Ch. Haut-Brion, even sit serenely and resolutely in Bordeaux's southern urban sprawl.
The climate is milder than to the north of the city and the harvest can occur up to two weeks earlier. This gives the best wines a heady, rich and almost savoury character, laced with notes of tobacco, spice and leather. Further south, the soil is sandier with more clay, and the wines are lighter, fruity and suitable for earlier drinking.
六、 Pessac-Léognan 產區常見問題 (FAQ)
Q: Pessac-Léognan 的頂級白酒與布根地 (Burgundy) 白酒有何不同? A: 布根地白酒幾乎 100% 使用 Chardonnay(莎當妮)單一品種釀造,強調整體酸度與風土的通透感;而 Pessac-Léognan 則是採用 Sauvignon Blanc 與 Sémillon 進行混釀,口感上多了一分 Sémillon 帶來的圓潤豐厚感,以及 Sauvignon Blanc 特有的百香果、青草與火石氣息,風格截然不同但同樣具備極高的陳年潛力。
Q: 為什麼 1959 年的 Graves 列級莊,現在都標示為 Pessac-Léognan 產區? A: 1959 年評級時,Pessac-Léognan 尚未獨立,仍屬於 Graves 產區的北部。因為這片北部區域擁有最深厚的優質礫石土壤,孕育了所有入選的 16 大名莊。為了突顯這塊精華風土的獨特性,官方才於 1987 年將其獨立劃分為 Pessac-Léognan AOC。
延伸閱讀:Top 10 Bordeaux Wines 波爾多十大酒莊
Pessac-Leognan